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Fasolia Gigantes Plaki: Big Greek Beans baked in a Bodacious Red Sauce

I thumbed through the wine-stained menu at a popular taverna in Aghios Nikolais on the eastern edge of Crete. Meat, lamb and meat it said in four languages; in a succession of loud tourist restaurants it had been the same now every night for a week. Here, jammed up against the wall of the kitchen, […]

Woodfired Roast Chicken

My college buddy and I huddled in darkness beside an old wooden fence, shivering and cursing the farmer who had put us up to this. A sliver of moon shone thin light upon a stone farmhouse where the farmer and his wife sat, no doubt in the glow of a roaring fire. The same trickle […]

Moderating Heat in a Woodfired Oven

Most woodfired oven owners only use the oven once a week or so to bake pizza or bread at fairly high temperatures. There’s another level of cooking available, at lower and constant temperatures, which requires pulsing the oven with small fires. This is useful knowing about both to protect the oven from unnecessary cracking from […]

French Flambé Pizza: Onion, Prosciutto and Comte with Cream Sauce

‘I don’t want to go bowling!’ My son stamped his foot.

‘When you’re in France,’ I said in my best, all-knowing fatherly voice, ‘you do what French people do.’ I ruffled his hair and he pulled away.

‘But bowling?’ he howled. ‘Who goes to France to go bowling?’

Well, I guess he had a point. […]

Shitake Mushroom and Cambozola Pizza with Caramelized Onions

A friend who once owned a cheese shop told me the Cambozola story. That blue cheese with brie was a winning combination had been well known in cheese circles for years, but the French refused to adulterate their Camembert with blue cheese and the Italians didn’t want to tone down their gorgonzola. In 1970, a […]

Woodfired Soft Pretzels

I left the East Coast 30 years ago and, except for sporadic family visits, I’ve hardly been back since. The man can leave the East Coast but the East Coast doesn’t leave the man. One yearns for corner delis with fistfuls of amazing sandwiches, serious pizzas from pizza joints whose recipes have bridged generations. And […]

Curried Red Beans with Carrots and Fennel

Here at Chez Bullhog, we love our beans. As a delicious comfort food, a hearty alternative to meat, or tender nuggets that suck up all kinds of exotic flavoring, they never fail to satisfy. And so when we learned that we could cook them the way people used to do it, with the bean pot […]

Bialys: Little Loaves with a World of History

I’ve always liked bread that comes with a good story behind it, so when my friend Posy turned up at Chez Bullhog one rainy Saturday with a little book under her arm and a bright gleam in her eye, I perked up straight away. ‘Bialys,’ she said, excitedly poking at the book with her finger. […]

In the Winter Oven: Fire-roasted Potatoes and Parsnips

It’s dark by 5 p.m., and wintry but not too cold, an evening that could be medieval as easily as it is modern. Just the kind of night that’s perfect for a bright fire and a big pan of oven-roasted root veggies. All that’s needed to complete the scene are potatoes, parsnips, onions, a few […]

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Etiam pulvinar consectetur dolor sed malesuada. Ut convallis euismod dolor nec pretium. Nunc ut tristique massa.

Nam sodales mi vitae dolor ullamcorper et vulputate enim accumsan. Morbi orci magna, tincidunt vitae molestie nec, molestie at mi. Nulla nulla lorem, suscipit in posuere in, interdum non magna.