I felt like a Boy Scout on Sunday, roasting potatoes in the dying coals left after an evening of pizza. Wrapped in foil, along with just a hint of butter to keep their skins moist, those potatoes cooked to perfection in a little over an hour. That nutty aroma took me right back to the [...]
There’s no pussyfooting about this: the best way to make Baba Ganouj is to roast your eggplant directly on the coals. The skin of the eggplant turns black and crusty, and pulls away from the tender fruit within. At the same time the flesh takes on a luscious, smoky perfection.
Not familiar with Baba Ganouj? [...]
What’s not to love about a big old woodfired loaf of bread? The first time I saw a Pain Poilâne, I wanted to sink my teeth right into its yeasty innards and let the smell of smoke waft into my brain. And that big crusty miche on the cover of Peter Reinhart’s book? Okay, it’s [...]
“Sinpannay; conpannay.” A man holding a white pad stood by our weatherbeaten outdoor table, gesturing from me to the Salad Queen. His face was turning red. We were so frazzed by our drive that we just didn’t get it. “Sinpannay. Conpannay.” He gestured back and forth, threw up his arms and stalked off. His thin cry of exasperation [...]
Here’s a tasty way to cook pork chops on the falling heat of your woodfired oven. Layers of pork and tangy tomatillos simmer for hours in sweet apple cider until the meat is fork-tender. Served with rice, beans and tortillas, it’s a casual meal that transcends delectable.
This is a great “day after” recipe to make [...]
At Chez Bullhog, we take pizza pretty darned seriously. In the lead-up to building our woodfired oven in 2004, the fervor stepped up a couple of notches. Sure, we can always work the toppings, but it’s the dough that has become most important. As any aficionado can tell you: every great pizza begins with a [...]
My daughter’s friend opened our fridge the other day and let out a shriek. ‘What the heck is this?’ She held out a plastic tub crusted on the rim with what looked like pancake batter. A thin puddle of dark liquid covered its doughy contents.
‘Whoa, careful,’ I said, taking it gingerly from her hands and putting the lid back on. ‘That’s my favorite starter, made with wild huckleberries. It makes great bread. At least, it does when it wants [...]
In mid-morning sunshine, we squint up at the Tuscan hill town that rises in a tangle of narrow streets and medieval buildings as far as our eyes can see. At the very top peeks a crenellated building that looks remarkably like a fortified castle. Sounds resonate in the clear Sunday stillness, bringing us back to [...]
I was trying to shut out the buzz at the table when I realized my dad was talking to me. Just to humor him I listened to his dumb old story about going to a deli about a hundred years ago. They probably had cool things like cars with big fins and transistor radios and [...]
I’ve never been to New Orleans, but my first Seattle roommate was a recent transplant who plunged me headfirst into its culture. With rabid enthusiasm he’d leap out of his chair, yank the needle off whatever album was playing at the time, and plop another record in its place.
‘You’ve never heard The Wild Tchoupitoulas?’ he’d [...]