The waiter by the pool had the grace to blush as he told us we could expect little nightlife. The next morning we headed west, out onto barren stretches where the road gave way to cart tracks and herds of goats blocked the way. Near the northwestern edge, we sighed at the views across the sparkling Aegean, that stretched until forever. [...]
I thumbed through the wine-stained menu at a popular taverna in Aghios Nikolais on the eastern edge of Crete. Meat, lamb and meat it said in four languages; in a succession of loud tourist restaurants it had been the same now every night for a week. Here, jammed up against the wall of the kitchen, [...]
“No meat!” The Greek proprietor slashed the air with his pointed finger. He bent behind the counter to pull out a large tray, which he proceeded to set before us. We inhaled the wonderful smell of tomatoes mixed with rice, onion and herbs. No meat. A smile spread across the face of my wife the Salad Queen.
We had come in from the late afternoon heat to [...]
The donkey stopped on the path in front of us and refused to go another step. A tiny woman wearing black clothes and a grey shawl smacked his rump. ‘Ela, eLA,’ she cried as the donkey turned to look at her with doleful eyes. She eyed us with resignation and began with gnarled fingers to [...]
The Greeks with their dark, sharp eyes and stoic expressions regarded us as though we were crazy. We danced down the sidewalks of Heraklion, singing. Before us was the port, leading to Santorini, the islands and all parts north in the blue-green Aegean. Behind us, the sun-drenched hills of Crete and the road to Knossos.