At Brighton the bus turned west and set off onto a wide sweep of headland. Here and there white chalk cut into fields and stood starkly against the green shrubs and close-cropped grasses that filled our view. At Southampton a low swath of land dropped to reveal the Solent and the sea beyond. As I gazed upon [...]
Coming down Nob Hill my friend took his Porsche airborne at Powell, turned to me and grinned.
‘Is that what you meant?’ He downshifted in front of the hotel, hooked a U-ey and screeched to a halt at the curb. The women unfolded themselves from the tiny backseat, straightened their hair, and cursed our recklessness as two bellhops ushered us through the big brass [...]
The sun shone with searing intensity on the outside seating area at Jerome Bettis Grille 36. Brightly clad baseball fans made their weekly pilgrimage to an afternoon game and, while I would’ve killed for a good beach umbrella right about then, I watched them stream past incongruously carrying brooms. Brooms but no umbrellas; go figure!
It was somewhere north of Lodi that the idea began to take shape. As golden California sunshine poured out upon glittering apricot groves in the central valley, I daydreamed about my campsite dinner. Fajitas, lightly browned on the Coleman stove, using the new griddle I’d snapped up the other day. Maybe a little fire to heat the tortillas: it was going to be [...]
The waiter by the pool had the grace to blush as he told us we could expect little nightlife. The next morning we headed west, out onto barren stretches where the road gave way to cart tracks and herds of goats blocked the way. Near the northwestern edge, we sighed at the views across the sparkling Aegean, that stretched until forever. [...]
The rain cleaned the cobbles in the night, giving way to a fresh mist which hung lightly over the slow-moving Tiber. A man with the only gas-powered leaf blower we’d ever seen in Italy blew damp leaves down the stairway beside the Ponte Mazzini, rousing the sleeping gypsies who live under the bridge. As we [...]
It really doesn’t take a lot to make a guy from Philly happy at lunchtime. Send him to a clean and basic restaurant that does a tasty hoagie or a nice cheesesteak and he’ll be smiling ’till dinnertime. As any Philly boy or girl can tell you, a sandwich like this is good for the [...]
The tang of coal smoke hangs in the air as we heft our packs and make our way through the cobbled streets of Glossop. Out past the clusters of stone houses, all tumbled together, we rise to a low ridge that takes in views of glorious dales gleaming in hazy sunshine. The air up here is [...]
I thumbed through the wine-stained menu at a popular taverna in Aghios Nikolais on the eastern edge of Crete. Meat, lamb and meat it said in four languages; in a succession of loud tourist restaurants it had been the same now every night for a week. Here, jammed up against the wall of the kitchen, [...]
I dip my paddle and pause in the late morning stillness. A hundred feet away a head emerges, dog-like and sleek, counterpoint to the barely rippled water. Moments later, as if by magic, another head appears. Two sets of dark mud-puddle eyes look at me for a few seconds and then, as quietly and mysteriously [...]