I’ve been reading Ed Levine’s book, Pizza: A Slice of Heaven. Ed’s a guy who samples on average six pizzas a day and has an opinion about every one, from the dyed-in-the-wool Napolitano to New York’s finest. He’s got the genealogy of pizza in America down to a fine art: from Lombardi’s in 1905, through [...]
The timing of an email from my local clean air agency was uncanny. At the very moment I had lit my first fire in weeks the atmosphere turned on me. From the eerie stillness in the air that hung around our back porch, the too-strong fragrance of my barely burning fire, and the layered fabric of [...]
Mauro with the woodfired oven at San Carlo on Granby Street in Leicester
The following are notes from Sortachef’s recent trip to the UK.
July 21st, Bloomsbury, Central London
While walking to Covent Garden after depositing our bags at the hotel, I spy a well-dressed man at a sidewalk table eating what looks like a mighty fine [...]
My daughter the Cake Princess looked quizzically at the dough laid out on a wooden peel in the kitchen. “Do you make pizza every day?” she asked, striking a pose. “Just this week,” I assured her. “Yeah, right,” she said, and flopped off to check her facebook page.
Thin to thick: Last week's selection
We’re all [...]
Our waiter was clearly worried. He guided us to a table with a view out onto the Campo, jabbed menus into our hands and headed back to confer with the indoor waiter. Standing nervously at the arched doorway, he leveled a severe look on a group of Italian tourists drinking from paper cups at one [...]
‘I don’t want to go bowling!’ My son stamped his foot.
‘When you’re in France,’ I said in my best, all-knowing fatherly voice, ‘you do what French people do.’ I ruffled his hair and he pulled away.
‘But bowling?’ he howled. ‘Who goes to France to go bowling?’
Well, I guess he had a point. When the Bullhogs [...]
When our woodfired oven was new, we Bullhogs entertained every weekend and made a lot of pizzas. We experimented with ingredients for toppings, some of which worked and some – well, let’s just say they were interesting. The chicken and Italian dressing, for example. Or the blue cheese and potato. But sometimes, we stumbled upon [...]
In a shop just off a sunny piazza in Colle Val D’Elsa some years ago, I watched the proprietor take down a bottle. He shook it just a little and held it up. Shriveled black balls the size of fat acorns, backlit by the sun, moved in golden liquid at the bottom. ‘Truffles,’ he said [...]
We make pizza nearly every week here at Chez Bullhog. When you have an outdoor pizza oven, it’s hard not to: pizza has become an obsession. But, even without using the special oven, we’ve gotten pretty good at turning out a quality pizza. Here are some tips:
For half the flour in the dough, substitute Caputo [...]