I’ve been reading Ed Levine’s book, Pizza: A Slice of Heaven. Ed’s a guy who samples on average six pizzas a day and has an opinion about every one, from the dyed-in-the-wool Napolitano to New York’s finest. He’s got the genealogy of pizza in America down to a fine art: from Lombardi’s in 1905, through [...]
I’ve long resisted putting chicken on a pizza. To my taste and sensibilities, chicken doesn’t work well with red sauce; turning to barbecue sauce just muddies the mix. So when I hit on using spinach as a base for this pizza, I realized I was onto a good thing.
This pizza rocks. Ham gives the spinach [...]
The words I heard on the other end of the line struck terror in my pizza-loving heart. ‘I can’t eat wheat,’ my friend Alison announced in the lead-up to our long-anticipated woodfired dinner. Her voice was resigned and more than a little apologetic.
Aargh, I thought. Here we go. Rice flour; boring dough. But her next [...]
The timing of an email from my local clean air agency was uncanny. At the very moment I had lit my first fire in weeks the atmosphere turned on me. From the eerie stillness in the air that hung around our back porch, the too-strong fragrance of my barely burning fire, and the layered fabric of [...]
Every self-respecting Italian pizza is made from dough that was made the day before. The long rise brings out flavors in the dough that aren’t there when fresh, and allows the dough to be pulled amazingly thin. What’s changed is the gluten – the protein in the dough that allows the stretch.
To see the difference, [...]
When I was a kid, the Italian lunch ladies would sometimes serve up trays of pizza: fat slabs of rich yeasty crust slathered with oregano-spiced tomato sauce and mozzarella. When I bit into a hunk of that pizza, I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. On those days the lunch lines were long, and [...]